Shuni-e?(修二会) is a ceremony that takes place at (among other temples) the To?dai-ji temple in Nara, Japan, happening this year between March 1 - 14. It is also known as?o-mizutori?(お水取り), which is the name for the water ceremony on the final night.?Shuni-e?The ceremony involves many components that are not open to the public, but the most famous part, the fire ceremony, is. Every night, ten select believers (eleven on the last night before the water ceremony) shoulder large pine torches 8 metres long, climb a flight of stairs, and run along the balcony of the Nigatsu-dō temple, showering sparks on the public below,
My photo above is of one of these fire-bearing practitioners, the brightest part of the flame being on the right side of the temple's balcony and the sparks from the burning torch scattering below. The amount of space between the temple balcony and the front row of the audience is not an optical illusion, and audience members are warned to watch for the falling sparks. Monks and laypeople of the temple carry water sprayers to help with any small fires on the ground. The wood on either side of the temple is fire-proofed before. From inside the temple, which is closed completely to the public, chanting and loud, fast footsteps can be heard.
After the ceremony, I lingered in the audience with what seemed to be a more focused group of practitioners than the previous crowd, which included many tourists. Many of the ~50 people who stayed at the temple seemed to know each other and to know the monks and laypeople guiding the crowds. After about 20 minutes, with most of the crowd gone, the remaining people lined up to go to the top of the temple and walk along the balcony. I joined them, not knowing whether I would be allowed to until I eventually made it up without being turned away. Some of the people on the balcony with me rested their heads on the temple walls to listen to the chanting inside, and others tried to find cracks in the old wood to catch a glimpse of the ceremony continuing within. I enjoyed the panoramic view of Nara from the temple balcony and marvelled at the efficiency with which the embers and ash must have been cleaned from the temple's floor. I thanked Kannon for having me, thanked each layperson and monk on my way out, and walked back to my hotel through Nara park, greeting the many deer on my path.
